Exploring the Mount of Olives (Jerusalem)
When I first visited Jerusalem, I was a little intimidated by the Mount of Olives. What’s there to see? And how do I even get there? I realized that most people who visit go with an organized tour; very few actually venture there on their own. Exploring the Mount of Olives on your own is actually really easy, and I’m going to give you some tips on how to do it!
Visiting the Mount of Olives on your own is a great way to spend a day. You can wander around at your own pace and really enjoy the experience. There are plenty of other tour groups around, so if you’re worried about missing some key facts, just sneak up, a little closer, and have a listen. They won’t mind!
First things first – getting there
The Mount of Olives is in East Jerusalem, and is served by a number of buses that only run in East Jerusalem and parts of the West Bank. There are three main East Jerusalem bus terminals, all close to the Damascus Gate of the old city. To get there from West Jerusalem, you can either take the light rail or a public bus to the Damascus Gate. You’ll then have to walk to Sultan Sulliman Terminal off of Sultan Suleiman St. Take bus 255 or 275.
If you aren’t sure you’ve got the right bus, just ask the driver if he is going to the Mount of Olives. You pay the driver directly for your bus fare, and take the bus to the last stop. Mostly likely you’ll be the only tourist on the bus. The driver may ask if you want to get off by the Chapel of Ascension or at the promenade – see my descriptions below to decide what you prefer.
Chapel of Ascension
Originally a church, the Chapel of Ascension is now a shrine within a mosque complex. It holds a stone, on which there are two markings that some believe are the footprints of Jesus. The footprints are believed to have been made when he ascended into heaven forty days after his resurrection.
This spot is a bit off the tourist map, so you may be the only ones visiting. It isn’t a huge site, so it’s quick to see. You’ll then have to walk a few minutes down the hill to the promenade. I think if you are passionate about religious sites, it may be worth the stop. If you’re short on time, you probably won’t miss it if you skip.
Promenade
Most tourists start at the promenade, and for good reason, it has the best view of Jerusalem (and camel rides for hire if you want a real middle-eastern-themed photo). From here you can see the Kidron Valley, and all the way across to the old city. The most prominent landmark is the Dome of the Rock, a golden dome sitting on top of a blue tiled structure.
Take a moment to think about how old the city is, and how many different groups of people lived within those walls. Think about all of the history that happened in that very spot, history that has shaped the world to this day. It is quite breathtaking.
The Jewish Cemetery
Much of the Mount of Olives is covered with an expansive cemetery, some of which dates back to the first temple period (3000 years). You’ll notice that, rather than flowers, the gravestones are covered in pebbles; in the Jewish tradition, rocks are placed on gravestones to honor the dead. You are welcome to wander through this cemetery if you’d like, but you’ll have a chance to do it again after you reach the foot of the mountain.
From the promenade, you should follow the narrow road that meanders down the hill.
Dominus Flevit Church
On the right, you’ll find the Dominus Flevit Church. The teardrop shape of the church represents the moment at which Jesus looked down on Jerusalem and wept for its future fate. This is a cute little catholic church with picnic tables and a bathroom if you need one.
Church of Mary Magdalene
Continue descending the pathway and you’ll reach the stunning Church of Mary Magdalene, perhaps the most recognizable landmark on the Mount of Olives. This Russian Orthodox Church was built by Tsar Alexander III to honor his mother. The golden onion domes of the church glitter in the sunlight and are just lovely.
The visiting hours at this church are quite limited, so I’ve never actually been able to get in! If you wish to get inside this lovely church, you’ll have to visit on either Tuesday or Thursday between 10 am and 12 pm.
Garden of Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations
The next stop along the trail is the Garden of Gethsemane, which serves as the courtyard for the Church of All Nations. The garden has religious significance, as it is said to be where Jesus prayed the night he was betrayed.
Even if you are not religious, the garden is a lovely place to visit. It is small, but full of ancient olive trees, some of them can be dated back to year 1100! That’s pretty old! In the summer, it’s also lush with flowers.
The Church of All Nations is one of my favorite churches in the city. Although it is a newer church, the interior is quite beautiful. The walls are covered in golden mosaics of olive trees to honor the gardens.
Tomb of the Virgin Mary
The next (and nearly last) stop is the Tomb of the Virgin Mary. Although there is some debate over where Mary spent her final days, the Orthodox Christians believe this is the spot where Mary fell into a deep slumber before rising to heaven.
The shrine is quite interesting because it’s in a cave-like room below the ground. There is a mismatch of dusty lanterns and old, faded religious portraits.
This is where most of the tours end, but if you’re on your own, you should keep walking. Once you emerge from Mary’s tomb and are on the main road, turn left and walk towards the little snack shop/tourist info station. There is a staircase that heads down into the valley.
Tomb of Zechariah (the Finale)
Follow the trail and you will soon find a few impressive tombs built into the stone cliff, the most prominent being the tomb of Zechariah. It’s not actually a tomb, there is no burial chamber, but it’s a pretty impressive monument. It reminds you that Jerusalem has been an important holy city for 1000s of years!
After you’ve taken a few photos, you may happen upon a large bedouin style tent with some complimentary tea, coffee and water. Take this opportunity to rest in the shade for a few moments, and get ready to hike up the stairs towards the old city. Just a short walk up and you’ll be by the Kotel (Western Wall) entrance. From here, you can either catch a city bus to your next destination or wander the old city’s alleyways. I recommend the latter.
Some Additional Tips
The total walk will take a few hours depending on how long you stop in each location.
Make sure you bring some water and a few snacks; there aren’t many places to stop along the way.
It can be hot during the summer months; wear sunscreen, dress light, and maybe even bring a hat or an umbrella to shield you from the sun.
Now that you know all the necessary details and logistics, I hope that you decide to do a little exploring on the Mount of Olives; it is definitely worth the trip!
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