Searching for Surf: a Week in Montanita
During the late 70’s, my parents traveled through South America while living in Paraguay. I sometimes felt I was following in their footsteps, but the experiences Arie and I have had are quite different from my parents’. The backpackers’ trail through South America has experienced lightning growth. This can be frustrating at times, but must be accepted. On the upside, it can make traveling easier. Generally, places that are pretty awesome have already been identified. By word of mouth and through social media posts and online travel communities, it is easy to find these “hot spots.” A beautiful hot spring, a lush hiking trail, or a relaxed surfing beach will not stay a secret for long.
While in Ecuador, we considered mountain biking in Cotopaxi and hiking the Quilotoa Loop, but after our trek in the Colombian Paramo, our hike in Mindo, and thinking about our upcoming adventure through the Sacred Valley, we opted for a relaxing beach excursion.
Perhaps one of the brightest stops on the “trail” was the small surf-town of Montanita. This pacific-coast village has become a hippie haven for those seeking sun, surf, and yoga, topped off with some late night parties.
To save a day, our plan was to take the overnight bus from Quito. While researching, we found the Reina del Camino bus to be the most direct route, with the most convenient times. However, we’d heard some scary stories related to the company. This particular bus company had been known to have speedy, careless drivers to the point where the government had actually forced them to suspend operations until they improved their safety protocols. After swearing that they had transformed their operations, they were allowed to re-open. We decided to take a chance and Oh My Goodness, what a chance we took. In all my years of traveling, this bus ride was the scariest I have ever experienced. As I was thrown from one side of the seat to the other on every cliff-side turn, I knew there was no chance of sleeping. Instead, I focused on positive thinking, praying that we would not tumble over the cliff and meet our premature end. Luckily – and I mean LUCKLY – we arrived safely in Puerto Lopez…THREE hours earlier than expected! We then caught a rickety ole bus down the coast to Montanita.
We were dropped off on the side of the highway at the edge of town. It was a quiet Sunday morning, and the sun was just beginning to lighten the slumbersome streets. The winter sky was overcast, and the air was damp with a salty mist blowing in from sea. The locals were still sleepy-eyed as they arrived to set up their shops. A few club-goers still stumbled along, finishing the last of their beers. It was not the best first impression. Heading down the beach, we wondered if we had made a mistake in deciding to spend a full week in Montanita. But as soon as we saw our most adorable abode, our panic dissipated.
The Balsa Surf Camp is owned and run by an Ecuadorian surfer and his awesome French wife. Together, these two created the coolest, chicest, surf hostel around. The cottages are charming, the gardens are lush, and the common spaces are strung with hammocks. Their surf shop bulged with handmade, traditional, balsa-wood boards, and the quiet end of the beach was just steps from their front door.
For the next week, we spent our days reading on the beach or in a hammock by our cottage and dining on street food: grilled corn, empanadas and fresh fruit smoothies. As a treat, we had delicious dinners at the Italian restaurant, Pigro (I ordered the risotto). It was a yummy and relaxing week.
(Side Note: Before heading to Montanita, I had been apprehensive about the weather. Having grown up in the tropics, I thought a non-air-conditioned room might be unbearable. As it turns out, winters on the Ecuadorian coast are routinely cool and overcast. We spent most of the day in long sleeves and jeans, and at night we donned sweaters and rainproof shells. If anything, we were wishing for a bit more heat so we could really enjoy a swim in the ocean!)
Traveling in Ecuador – see what towns we visited
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