The Great Escape: Here We Go

June 18, 2017
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United States
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2 Comments

Go west, Young Professionals, Go West (part 1)

New York is the city that does not sleep. Unfortunately, that often applies to its hardworking inhabitants. As a lawyer and an accountant working in the big apple, there were nights that we’d be working so late that we literally did not sleep. We knew that the lifestyle was unsustainable. What was the point of paying NYC rent without having any time to enjoy the city’s splendors? So, when Arie found an opportunity that would allow him the prestige of working with the Supreme Court of Israel while having a more reasonable schedule, we made our escape plan. It just so happened that we had a series of weddings to attend, scattered across the summer and the globe. With these parties in mind, we decided to take the long (and windy) route to the Holy Land.

The first wedding we were to attend was in Los Angeles. The next was in Reno, Nevada; followed by another in Saint Maurice sur Moselle, France and the last, in New York City. We had arranged to borrow my parents’ old Ford Escape, and with that, we began our own Great Escape.

We did not make it far before our first stop, Washington DC, to visit some good friends. We’d been to DC several times before, so on this trip we focused on culinary tourism. We had lunch at Le Diplomate (when in the capital), snacks and fresh kombucha at Union Market, and dinner at Shouk, a delicious, fast-casual, vegan, Israeli spot.

The next morning, we were up early, biscuit sandwiches in hand, and on the road to Virginia. We had a general plan, but knew we needed a stop somewhere before Charleston, SC. Looking at an old-school road atlas, I spotted a name I could not resist: The Great Dismal Swamp. How could I pass up a visit to a place with a name like that! Always choosing the more scenic route, we headed south via Skyline Drive, a 100-mile road that winds along mountaintop ridges from one end of Shenandoah National Park to the other. It is known for its fantastic valley views. We took our time, stopping along the way.

It was dark by the time we reached the southern border of the state. We pulled in to the Chesapeake Campground, the closest campground to the Dismal Swamp, and asked to pay for one night. Maybe it was our city clothes, or the pouring rain, but the attendant kept asking us to confirm that we understood that there were “no refunds.” We found our numbered spot and surveyed the plot for high ground. To the soundtrack of country music floating over from a nearby campsite and a chorus of singing frogs, we set up our tent. We worked quickly, but still felt the dampness from the rain that continued to fill the puddles surrounding our tent. It was a hot and sticky night, and it was already starting to feel a little dismal.

In the early morning, we packed up camp and headed to our dismal destination. During our brief visit, we learned that this swamp is actually historically significant, as it was an important part of the Underground Railroad. In the humidity of the summer, the swampy forest surrounding an interior lake is thick with mosquitoes and snakes – which was why it was easy for people to disappear into the thicket. If you come prepared (bug spray and sunscreen), it is really quite beautiful!

Our first stop was Lake Drummond, one of Virginia’s two natural fresh-water lakes. The lake sits in the center of the wooded swamp. One can kayak into the lake via surrounding irrigation canals, which we had hoped to do. Unfortunately, it would have been a full day excursion and we didn’t have the time. We took the only road to the lake, which begins at the Railroad Ditch Entrance of the park and ends at a lovely dock, which is perfect for viewing the picturesque cypress trees. We then walked the boardwalk trail, a raised, wooden trail built over the swampy water. At the time we visited, the trail was still under construction, so we were only able to walk a portion.

Next stop, Charleston, South Carolina. Oh man, this low country city had been on my wish list for a while. Enamored by southern charm, I needed to experience the swampy wetlands that produced cheddar grits and biscuits, wander through beautiful old plantation homes, and get a taste of that southern hospitality.

Unfortunately, we were on a time crunch, and the only day we had was rainy, oh, so rainy. We started off the day with breakfast at Hominy Grill. I was hoping for some fried, green tomatoes, but it was too early in the day. I settled for grits. We then headed over to Charleston City Market, Charleston’s most visited attraction. We wandered around the shops, admiring the handmade, sweet-grass baskets and browsed the bookshops. It was still pretty gloomy out, so we meandered through the historic town, taking cover in cafes during the sporadic rain showers. Since our next drive was a long one, we decided to get a head start by spending the night in Savannah, only a two-hour drive south from Charleston. We had a quick dinner at Leon’s Oyster Shop (I had some hush puppies with honey butter, yum!), and we were on our way. Although we weren’t able to do too much touring, we did get a feel for this place and I would definitely love to visit again.

Arie always prefers to take the roads less traveled, and as we headed towards the Florida panhandle, we ended up on an empty highway through hell, Tate’s Hell: a beautiful, swampy, pine forest in Florida. We drove for what seemed to be hours before the road ended on the beach. The kind of Florida beach that memories of great expectations conjures up, great big pelicans standing guard on homes built on stilts. We continued our drive westward through the great tourist spots of the panhandle, before ending up in Pensacola for the night.

Wait – that isn’t it – our road trip story continues! Check out part two: The Great Escape: Go West!

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