A Weekend in Champagne

June 13, 2018
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France
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My short and sweet guide to a weekend in Champagne. Last summer we planned our travels according to the various weddings that we were attending. One such wedding took us to France, the cherry on my travel sundae. We landed in Paris, but the wedding was at Rouge Gazon, a little ski resort close to the Swiss border. Never ones to miss out on an adventure, we decided to turn the journey from Paris into a little road trip through the French countryside.

We had about two full days in the Champagne region (around Reims). There are so many great champagne houses in this region, and if you are a bubbly fanatic, you may need more than a few days. We didn’t plan on drinking champs 24/7; visiting the historic tunnels was not just about sipping that golden elixir, it was about experiencing a craft that has been perfected over centuries. Two days was the perfect amount of time for us to get a taste of Champagne!

Champagnes are made by méthode champenoise, a secondary fermentation that happens inside the bottle, a method that has been perfected over centuries of champagne production.

Getting There

Champagne is a region in north-east France. The two main cities for visitors are Reims and Epernay. There are several smaller villages in the area that are perfect for someone looking for a quieter, quainter visit.

By Car: Champagne was not the only stop on our itinerary; we were doing a mini road trip after all, so renting a car was necessary. We Flew into Paris and picked up our rental at Charles de Gaulle. The drive from Paris to Champagne is short and easy (about 2 hours).

By Train: If you prefer not to rent a car, you can easily take the train from the East Railway Station in Paris (Gare de l’Est) which travels direct to Reims (Gare de Reims) & Epernay (Gare d’Epernay). The ride takes about 45 minutes (Reims) or 80 minutes (Epernay). Reims is quite a large city, with plenty to see in a weekend. There are also several Champagne houses located within the city, so you can schedule a few tours without having a car.

Where to Stay

The two main cities for champagne tasting are Reims (the bigger of the two) and Epernay. Surrounding these two cities are several small, traditional French villages, you know, the kind with stone houses, shuttered windows, and narrow streets. The villages are scattered throughout the vineyard-covered rolling hills.

If you want a French country feel, I would suggest finding a house or charming bed and breakfast on Airbnb or (similar). We were traveling with several family members, so we found an adorable farmhouse on Airbnb that was able to accommodate our large group. The house was a restored farmhouse in the village of Verneuil, across the river from Epernay. Just steps from our porch were miles of green vines loaded with grapes ready for picking. It was perfect!

If you prefer a hotel or you do not have a car, the best option is to stay in Reims. There are plenty of hotels, of various prices and comfort levels, including well-known brands such as the Mercure and its budget sibling, the Ibis. I always feel a bit of comfort staying in a hotel I’m familiar with!

Visiting a Champagne House

Now for the most important part of this post: visiting a champagne house! All of the champagne in the world, really, all of it, comes from Champagne, France. It cannot be called champagne if it is not from Champagne, France! So there are plenty of Champagne houses to visit, too many to list in one post!

All Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne

Each house is different, so you have to have an idea of what type of experience you want. The older, more established names make champagne in the traditional way, while the younger houses have more innovative styles. While the established houses may have a long history of fermentation, the tunnels where the champagne is stored are themselves historical treasures (many are over a thousand years old). For this reason, UNESCO designated certain areas of this region as heritage sites.

We chose to visit the Taittinger Cellars, which are also a UNESCO Heritage site. These particular cellars were originally chalk mines built by the Romans in the 4^th Century. In the 13^th century, an Abby was built above the cellars, and the monks would store their wine in the caves below.

Taittinger offers tours several days a week, every 30 minutes, starting at 9:45 am until 4:30 (tours are about an hour long including the tasting). The tours come with a variety of tasting options (1-3 glasses and 3 different types of champagne: Brut Reserve, Comtes de Champagne Blanc, and Comtes de Champagne Rose). We were able to register for a tour online, signing up for the tour with a Brut Reserve tasting. We paid 19 euro each.

The tour began with a small video that explained the history of champagne (did you know that one of the grapes used was actually brought back to France from the Holy Land by a few savvy crusaders?). We then took a walk through the tunnels, where we learned about the various steps to make champagne, the temperatures of the tunnels, the sizes of the bottles, and so on. It was really cool (literally and physically – those tunnels get chilly!). The tour ended with, of course, our tasting of Taittinger!

A tour of one of these historic houses is really necessary to get the full Champagne experience; it really isn’t just about the cuvee!

Below are a few of the must-see historic Champagne houses:

Veuve Clicquot (UNESCO) (Reims)
Pommery (UNESCO) (Reims)
Ruinart (UNESCO) (Reims) (Ruinart has the oldest and deepest chalk tunnels in the region. Also, it’s known for making their champagne from Chardonnay Grapes, while most other houses use a mix of three different grape varieties)
Moet & Chandon (Epernay) (I don’t believe Moet its self is a UNESCO site, but it is located on the UNESCO registered Avenue de Champagne. Also, Moet has the largest network of historic chalk tunnels, though they are definitely not the oldest, dating only as far back as the mid 1700s.)

Other Activities

Reims

Cathédrale Notre Dame: An impressive cathedral built in the high-gothic style. Not only is the building impressive, with its high arches, colorful stained glass windows, and frightening gargoyles, the Reims Cathedral was also used for the coronation of all but seven of the Kings of France.

Palais du Tau: The palace of the Archbishop of Reims. It was here that the French kings stayed before their coronation (in the Cathedral) and where the post coronation banquets were held. The palace has many textiles and artifacts on display in their museum. The Cathedral, the Palace, and their sister, the Abbey of Saint Remi, are all registered UNESCO Heritage Sites.

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Reims’ museum of fine arts, located in the Abbey of Saint-Denis.Musée de la Reddition: With all this ancient history, why not spend a little time learning about some relatively modern history? This museum focuses on the Nazi surrender in Reims during World War II.

Halles du Boulingrin: Food lovers will be in heaven at this massive fresh market. Spend some time here and you won’t need to say, “More cheese, please.”

Surrounding Area

Although there is plenty to do (and drink) in the cities, you must get outside and breathe that fresh country air. Here are a few ways to enjoy some sunshine:

Walk: The Marne River runs through the valley between Reims and Epernay. There is a lovely path where you can walk among the willows or relax on the green banking.

Boating: On our second day in champagne, we headed to a boulangerie and a fromagerie in Epernay to pick up some locally-made picnic supplies. We then headed to the Blue Nautic to chow down on our goodies before renting a couple of kayaks. There was a lovely little beach for swimming as well, which would be great on a hot day!

Hot air balloon: Although we did not have time for a hot air balloon ride, it sounds like a fantastic way to soak in those splendid rolling vineyards.

That’s it – my guide to a weekend in Champagne. If you have a chance to visit, it’s a wonderful trip. There are few better ways to spend a weekend than drinking good wine and eating delicious cheese in a beautiful place that’s also rich in history. What more could you ask for?

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