Four Days in Mexico City
Originally we didn’t think a trip to Mexico City was feasible. We were driving from Baja back up towards Copper Canyon, and driving to CDMX was several hours in the wrong direction. After discussing our plans with a friend of ours, he was adamant that we visit Mexico City. He suggested that we park our car along our route and fly. It seemed a bit extreme at first, and where would park our car in Mexico where it would be safe with all of our stuff for several days unattended? We thought we couldn’t make it work. But we really wanted to visit Mexico City, so we took a shot, booked a flight, and asked the lovely staff at Ibis in Los Mochis to allow us to park in their lot while we were away. They said yes with no hesitation, moved our car to a safer, covered spot that they held for us, and even offered (demanded, really) that we take our bikes off the rack and store them inside the hotel so that they didn’t get stolen (another reason we love them). We were on our way to the airport in no time, with a nice driver from the hotel telling us about his days as a boxer in Las Vegas.
Although we had scheduled about a week for our little detour south, we spent a few days visiting some of the towns surrounding Mexico City, so we ended up having just four days in the city itself. This is how we spent them:
For the full road trip through Mexico story:
- Baja or Bust: a Road Trip Through Mexico
- Crossing the Sea of Cortez: The Ferry to Los Mochis
- Teotihuacan: the Perfect Day Trip from Mexico City
- A Weekend in Guanajuato
- A Day in El Fuerte
- The Drive to Copper Canyon
- Exploring Mexico’s Copper Canyon
Day One: La Casa Azul and Coyoacan
We got a late start since we were learning to maneuver around the city (learning how to use the Metro) and checking into our AirBnB. We decided it would be a good day to visit Coyoacan, which was not far from our AirBnb. This beautiful little neighborhood is known for having great cafes and bookstores, and has been influenced by its historic affinity for art and culture (Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera lived in Coyoacan).
Frida Kahlo’s house, or La Casa Azul, is a very popular destination, so it is advised to purchase tickets for a particular time slot online, rather than wait in the huge, long line in person. We were able to purchase day-of tickets for the afternoon, and took the opportunity to check out a torta shop in the neighborhood that had been recommended, followed by a desert and coffee at a popular street-side café.
When our time had come, we headed over to Frida’s house. The setting itself is stunning; a vibrant cobalt blue covers the walls surrounding a lush, green inner courtyard. When we visited, there was a special exhibition of Frida’s clothing, which we learned were all strategically designed. Frida was a feminist of sorts, but also suffered from physical and emotional trauma (she was in a debilitating accident at a young age, and never fully recovered). Her mother’s heritage was from a matriarchal culture indigenous to Oaxaca. Frida wore the traditional Tehuantepec-style dress from her mother’s culture, not only because she wanted to portray a strong women, but because it also covered her physical wounds. She often had to wear a brace, and the loose shirts and long skirts made for beautiful cover.
As we walked through her “closet” I was in awe of the intricacy and thought that went into each outfit and the symbolism each was meant to exhibit, but I also felt a bit inappropriate, like I was invading a space or a mindset that was so intimate and personal. I suppose learning and sharing is how we can honor her revolutionary efforts.
Day Two: Historic Mexico City and the Markets
We love a good free walking tour, they are such a great way to learn about a city, and did I mention they’re free? Estacion Mexico’s Free Walking Tour of Historic Downtown was a perfect choice. The tour was supposed to last about two and a half hours, but there was so much to see that it ended up being closer to three hours.
We started at La Catedral Metropolitana and walked a meandering path passing by the Palacio Nacional and the Templo Mayor where we admired the original Aztec architecture. We then headed towards Iglesia de Santo Domingo across the street from the Teatro de la Ciudad. We stopped in the post office, which may be the most beautiful post office I’ve ever seen. We walked through the large plaza surrounding the Bellas Artes. Across the street we learned about Torre Latinoamericana, the first skyscraper to be built on active seismic land. We ended at Casa de los Azulejos, an old house (now a department store) covered in painted blue and white tile.
The free walking tours typically don’t provide extensive detail on any one spot. Instead, they provide an overview of multiple buildings, and then one can decide if there is any place that they’d like to return to for another look.
After our tour we were pretty hungry, so we headed towards La Texcocana for some sandwiches. Arie loves a good torta and had been searching for the best torta shop in Mexico City. Although the menu is very simple, Texcocana’s sandwiches were just right. I stuck with avocado and cheese, while Arie had some salty fish added to his. Each was topped with a smoky, chipotle pepper sauce. Yum.
While Arie is on the constant hunt for tasty sandwiches, I am always searching for a great market, and Mexico City has plenty. We first headed to La Merced Market, which is located on the edge of the historical center. This market is massive, and it was packed! It has everything you could possibly need, well, if you live locally. I wasn’t going to try to carry a huge piñata home! Seriously though, this market had fresh food, cooked food, crafts, fireworks, hardware stores, furniture stores, flowers, clothes, and more.
We wandered around, slightly overwhelmed, but thoroughly enjoying the spectacle. Arie stopped for a few tacos (al pastor). Then we headed across the street to the darker, more mysterious Sonora Market.
When I heard there was a market that was focused around witchcraft (ok, “herbal medicine and party supplies”) I had to visit. I’m superstitious, and I couldn’t resist sneaking a peak at some spells in action. I was a little nervous though, I have to admit, I didn’t want to do or say anything that would cause someone to cast an evil spell on me! As we wandered the isles, we quietly wondered, but were afraid to ask, what the tinctures of oils and colorful candles could really do. Even though I wanted to capture the magic on camera, I felt as though it may be inappropriate. I don’t know, it was just some weird superstitious thing!
Day Three: Modern Mexico City and Fancy Eats
When traveling for long periods of time, sometimes a day is needed to catch up on logistics and communications. We were staying at an AirBnB above this adorable café, the Estacion del Te (update: the Estacion del Te is no longer in operation), which has comfortable couches and delicious snacks. We spent a good part of the day planning the next few weeks: lodging, transportation, etc…
In the afternoon, we decided we should probably get out for a bit. We headed to the Paseo de la Reforma in Zona Rosa to see the Angel of Independence, which commemorates Mexico’s war of independence from Spain. The Angel is surrounded by modern sky scrapers; the business district of Mexico City.
From there we walked to a cute bookstore with a café called Cafebreria el Pendulo. The bookshop had a small English section which we browsed for a bit, and then had a snack in their café. We had been living off of street food for the last few days, so we planned to treat ourselves to something special that night. We headed to the stylish Balmori, a rooftop bar in Roma Norte. For someone on a budget, like us, this place was a bit of a splurge, but we had been minding our pesos quite well. We ordered two margarita-esque cocktails, one with tequila and one with mezcal. Both were delicious, although I preferred the smoky, savory taste of the mezcal while Arie preferred the tart, fruity flavor of the traditional margarita.
Day Four: A Park and a Museum
The Museo Nacional de Antropologia (Museum of Anthropology) in Mexico City is a must for any visitor. Everyone we had spoken with prior to our visit urged us to visit this massive museum. We chose to go on our last day in Mexico City because of predicted rain showers; being inside during the rain was a good idea.
We took the metro to Sevilla to get some breakfast tortas at La Texcocana in La Condesa (for the second time!). After the delicious sandwiches, we headed to Bosque de Chapultepec, one of the largest urban parks in the western hemisphere. The park is located at the end of the Paseo de la Reforma, a few blocks from the Angel of Independence. The “lungs” of Mexico City has been an important green space since the time of the Aztecs, and was used as a retreat for their rulers. During the colonial era, the park became the residence of Mexican heads of state (the residence has since moved to a different location). When we visited, the park was busy with local families having picnics and taking afternoon strolls. We kept walking in the direction of the Museum of Anthropology.
We were warned ahead of visiting the museum that we shouldn’t expect to see the entire place in one day. The museum is organized by historical periods and cultural regions, and is home to the largest collection of ancient Mexican art and artifacts. There is an overwhelming amount of history in Mexico, some of the greatest civilizations originated there. We were told to pick a few rooms that we really wanted to see and start with those. After several hours we were mentally and physically exhausted!
We still had a few hours of light left and decided to walk back through the park towards the Mercado Roma, a modern food hall where we could each choose something special for our last dinner in Mexico City.
We can now be added to the list of travelers singing Mexico City’s praises. Shaped by a rich and diverse history, it is so full culture and beauty. Modern MXCD is vibrant and stylish, with amazing food and an energetic atmosphere. We are so thankful that our friend was so adamant that we visit!
Check out how our Mexico road trip got started in Baja and Los Mochis
Planning a Mexico road trip of your own? Here are my top five tips so your trip can go as smoothly as ours
Travel Guide Summary: Mexico City
See /
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- Bosque de Chapultepec
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- Angel of Independence
- Neighborhoods: Coyoacan, Zona Rosa, Roma Norte, La Condesa
Savour /
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- La Texcocana
Style /
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- La Merced Market
Sundries /
Getting around: Mexico City has a fantastic metro system that is quite cheap. I downloaded the metroman app for a map of the metro that works offline. We were able to get everywhere! Obviously use your best judgment and stay alert while traveling on the Metro. That said, we always felt safe, and even took the metro as late as 11:00 pm!
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